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Shauna Coxsey facts for kids

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Shauna Coxsey
Shauna Coxsey GBR 2017-08-19 2214.jpg
Coxsey in August 2017
Personal information
Born (1993-01-27) 27 January 1993 (age 31)
Runcorn, England
Height 164 cm
Weight 58 kg
Spouse(s)
Ned Feehally
(m. 2021)
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering
Highest grade
Sport
Retired 2021
Medal record
Women's sport climbing
Representing  Great Britain
World Championships
Bronze 2019 Hachiōji Bouldering
Bronze 2019 Hachiōji Combined
World Cup
Third 2017 Combined
Winner 2017 Bouldering
Winner 2016 Bouldering
Second 2015 Bouldering
Second 2014 Bouldering
Third 2012 Bouldering
La Sportiva Legends Only
Gold 2017 Bouldering
Silver 2015 Bouldering
British Championships
Gold 2016 Bouldering
Gold 2015 Bouldering
Gold 2013 Bouldering
Gold 2012 Lead
Gold 2012 Bouldering
The CWIF
Gold 2016 Bouldering
Gold 2015 Bouldering
Gold 2014 Bouldering
Gold 2013 Bouldering
Gold 2012 Bouldering
Updated on 13 August 2019.

Shauna Coxsey MBE (born 27 January 1993) is an English professional rock climber. She is the most successful competition climber in the UK, having won the IFSC Bouldering World Cup Season in both 2016 and 2017. She retired from competition after competing in the 2020 Olympics., and continues to climb at a high level outdoors.

Early life

Coxsey was born in Runcorn on 27 January 1993. She began climbing in 1997 at the age of four, inspired by a television broadcast of Catherine Destivelle climbing in Mali. Although she was not tall enough to be allowed to climb, she continued to insist and was eventually allowed on the wall a few months later.

Career

Shauna Coxsey GBR 2017-08-19 2220
Coxsey climbing at the Boulder World Cup finals in August 2017

Coxsey was mainly active in competition climbing and has participated in several international competitions in bouldering. She has won the British Bouldering Championships on multiple occasions. In 2012, she won the 9th edition of the Melloblocco and placed 2nd in the World Cup stages in Log-Dragomer and Innsbruck. She finished third in the 2012 Bouldering World Cup. In 2013, she cleanly ascended her first problem graded 8B (V13)  when she climbed Nuthin' But Sunshine in Rocky Mountain National Park. In November, she was appointed one of the UK's first British Mountaineering Council Ambassadors.

In 2014, Coxsey placed second overall in the IFSC Bouldering World Cup, and fourth at the Bouldering World Championships in Munich. The same year, she became the third woman ever to boulder 8B+ (V14) when she topped New Baseline in Magic Wood near the Swiss town of Chur. In 2015, she won the British Bouldering Championships in Sheffield and took first place at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich.

In late 2016, Coxsey suffered a shoulder injury which prevented her from competing in that year's Bouldering World Championships, despite topping the overall rankings in the Bouldering World Cup. She won four IFSC Climbing World Cups in Meiringen (SUI), Kazo (JPN), Innsbruck (AUT) and Sheffield (UK). At the World Cup in Munich (GER) she placed second. In 2017, she again won four Bouldering World Cup stages, in Meiringen (SUI), Kazo (JPN), Mumbai (IND) and Vail (USA). In Munich (GER) she again placed second and secured the overall 2017 title.

In August 2019, Coxsey won two bronze medals at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Hachioji, in bouldering and the combined event. During the finals of the combined event, she set a British women's speed climbing record of 9.141 seconds, securing second place in the speed component of the combined ranking by winning races against Futaba Ito and Miho Nonaka before losing to Aleksandra Miroslaw. Her record lasted until August 2024 when it was finally broken by Ava Hamilton at the European Championships. Additionally, by reaching the finals of the combined event, Coxsey secured a qualification spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics, the first to include competitive climbing. When the Olympics was finally in 2021, she was recovering from a back injury, surgical treatment and rehabilitation. She came 10th in the competition. She planned to discontinue competitive climbing after the Olympics, but to continue as an elite-level rock climber.

In 2022, Coxsey continued climbing on indoor climbing walls whilst pregnant with her first child; she worked with a specialist physiotherapist and her husband, who is also a climber, to assess the routes as her body shape changed. Upon returning to outdoor climbing, after having her first child, she has climbed at a high level, including sending three 8B+ (V14) climbs.

Personal life

Coxsey was appointed Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) in the 2016 Birthday Honours for services to climbing. She married fellow climber Ned Feehally in 2021. They reside in Sheffield.

Rankings

World Cup

Discipline 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead - - - - - - - 30 - - -
Bouldering 38 19 3 4 2 2 1 1 9 10 61
Speed - - - - - - - - - - -
Combined - - - - - - - 3 - - -

World Championships

Youth

Discipline 2008
Youth B
2009
Youth A
Lead 9 19

Adult

Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Bouldering 16 - 4 - - 3
Lead - - - - - 17
Speed - - - - - 41
Combined - - - - - 3

World Cup podiums

Bouldering

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2012 3 3
2013 1 2 3
2014 2 3 1 6
2015 1 3 4
2016 4 2 6
2017 4 2 6
2018 0
2019 1 1 2
Total 11 12 7 30

Outdoor bouldering

Coxsey is the first British woman to climb the V12, V13, and V14 grades.

V14 (8B+):

  • New Base Line – Magic Wood (Switzerland) – 12 July 2014 – First female ascent of Bernd Zangerl's Boulder (2002)

V13 (8B):

  • Ropes of Maui – Dinas Mot (United Kingdom) – 5 April 2016 – First female ascent (first ascent by Pete Robins, 2014)
  • One Summer in Paradise – Magic Wood (Switzerland) – 3 July 2014 – Second female ascent (first ascent by Martin Keller, 2005)
  • Zarzaparrilla – Albarracin (Spain) – 31 March 2014 – First female ascent
  • Nuthin But Sunshine – Lower Chaos (Rocky Mountain National Park, United States) – 26 June 2013 – First female ascent (first ascent by Dave Graham, 2000)

See also

Kids robot.svg In Spanish: Shauna Coxsey para niños

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