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Mazar-i-Sharīf
مزار شریف
Nowruz in northern Afghanistan-2011 (cropped).jpg
Masjid Sabz Balkh Mazar-e Sharif Afghanistan.jpg
Burqa, Shrine of Hazrat Ali or The blue mosque.jpg
Mazar-i-Sharif Madrassah.jpg
Mazar sharif street.jpg
Rowza Shrine Hazrat Ali Mazar-e Sharif Afghanistan.jpg
Mazar-i-Sharīf is located in Afghanistan
Mazar-i-Sharīf
Mazar-i-Sharīf
Location in Afghanistan
Mazar-i-Sharīf is located in Bactria
Mazar-i-Sharīf
Mazar-i-Sharīf
Location in Bactria
Mazar-i-Sharīf is located in West and Central Asia
Mazar-i-Sharīf
Mazar-i-Sharīf
Location in West and Central Asia
Country  Afghanistan
Province Balkh
District Nahri Shahi
Area
 • Land 83 km2 (32 sq mi)
Elevation
357 m (1,171 ft)
Population
 • Estimate 
(2021)
500,207
Time zone UTC+4:30 (Afghanistan Standard Time)
Climate BSk

Mazar-i-Sharīf (/məˈzæri ʃəˈrf/ -zarr-EE-_-SHƏ-reef; Dari and Pashto: مزار شریف), also known as Mazar-e Sharīf or simply Mazar, is the fourth-largest city in Afghanistan by population, with an estimated 500,207 residents in 2021. It is the capital of Balkh province and is linked by highways with Kunduz in the east, Kabul in the southeast, Herat in the southwest and Termez, Uzbekistan in the north. It is about 55 km (34 mi) from the Uzbek border. The city is also a tourist attraction because of its famous shrines as well as the Islamic and Hellenistic archeological sites. The ancient city of Balkh is also nearby.

The region around Mazar-i-Sharif has been historically part of Greater Khorasan and was controlled by the Tahirids followed by the Saffarids, Samanids, Ghaznavids, Ghurids, Ilkhanids, Timurids, and Khanate of Bukhara until 1751 when it became part of the Durrani Empire (although under autonomous emirs). Eventually the city passed to a few local rulers before becoming part of Afghanistan in 1849.

Mazar-i-Sharif is the regional hub of northern Afghanistan, located in close proximity to both Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. It is also home to an international airport. It has the highest percentage of built-up land (91%) of all the Afghan provincial capitals, and it has additional built-up area extending beyond the municipal boundary but forming a part of the larger urban area. It is also the lowest-lying major city in the country, about 357 metres (1,171 ft) above sea level. The city was spared the devastation that occurred in the country's other large cities during the Soviet–Afghan War and subsequent civil war, and was long regarded as one of the safest cities in the country.

On 14 August 2021, Mazar-i-Sharif was seized by Taliban fighters, becoming the twenty-fifth provincial capital to be captured by the Taliban as part of the wider 2021 Taliban offensive.

Etymology

The name Mazar-i-Sharif means "tomb of the saint", a reference to the tomb of Ali, cousin, son-in-law and companion of the Islamic prophet Muhammad. The tomb is housed in the large, blue-tiled sanctuary and mosque in the center of the city known as the Shrine of Ali or the Blue Mosque.

History

Ancient period

The Achaemenids controlled the region from the sixth century BCE. Alexander the Great conquered the area but it was then incorporated into the Seleucid Empire after his death. The decline of the Seleucids consequently led to the emergence of the Greco-Bactrian kingdom. Around 130 BCE, the Sakas occupied the region and the Greco-Bactrian kingdom fell. The Yuezhi took Mazar-i-Sharif and the surrounding area which led to the creation of the Kushan Empire. The Sasanians subsequently controlled the area after the fall of the Kushans. The Islamic conquests reached Mazar-i-Sharif in 651 CE.

9th century until 1919

The region around Mazar-i-Sharif has been historically part of Greater Khorasan and was controlled by the Tahirids followed by the Saffarids, Samanids, Ghaznavids, Ghurids, Ilkhanids, Timurids, and Khanate of Bukhara.

Mazar-i-Sharif & Band-e-Amir Fan
Mazar-i-Sharif & surroundings from ISS, 2016

The poet Jalal al-Din Rumi was born somewhere in this area. His father Baha' Walad was descended from the first caliph Abu Bakr.

The Seljuk sultan Ahmed Sanjar ordered a city and shrine to be built on the location, which was later destroyed by Genghis Khan and his Mongol army in the 13th century, and then rebuilt. During the nineteenth century, due to the absence of drainage systems and the weak economy of the region, the excess water of this area flooded many acres of the land in the vicinity of residential areas causing a malaria epidemic in the region. The ruler of North Central Afghanistan decided to move the capital to Mazar-i-Sharif.

The city along with the region south of the Amu Darya became part of the Durrani Empire in around 1751. For the most part the region was controlled by autonomous Uzbek rulers). After the Bukharan-Durrani war of 1788–1790, Qilich Ali Beg of Khulm formed a mini-empire stretching from Balkh to Aybak, Saighan, Kahmard, Darra-i Suf, and Qunduz. When he died in 1817, the Balkh and Mazar-i Sharif region became an independent city state with Aqcha as its dependency. In November 1837 the Bukharans conquered the city but Balkh was still able to retain autonomy. In 1849 the city was conquered and annexed into Afghanistan.

Late 20th century

During the 1980s Soviet–Afghan War, Mazar-i-Sharif was a strategic base for the Soviet Army as they used its airport to launch air strikes on mujahideen rebels. Mazar-i-Sharif was also the main city that linked to Soviet territory in the north, especially the roads leading to the Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic. As a garrison for the Soviet-backed Afghan Army, the city was under the command of General Abdul Rashid Dostum. Mujahideen militias Hezbe Wahdat and Jamiat-e Islami both attempted to contest the city but were repelled by the Army. Dostum mutinied against Mohammad Najibullah's government on March 19, 1992, shortly before its collapse, and formed his new party and militia, Junbish-e Milli. The party took over the city the next day. Afterwards Mazar-i-Sharif became the de facto capital of a relatively stable and secular proto-state in northern Afghanistan under the rule of Dostum. The city remained peaceful and prosperous, whilst rest of the nation disintegrated and was slowly taken over by fundamentalist Taliban forces. The city was called at the time a "glittering jewel in Afghanistan's battered crown". Money rolled in from foreign donors Russia, Turkey, newly independent Uzbekistan and others, with whom Dostum had established close relations. He printed his own currency for the region and established his own airline. The city remained relatively liberal as Kabul previously was, where activities such as coeducational schools and betting was legal as opposed to the Taliban dominated regions in the south of the country.

This peace was shattered in May 1997 when he was betrayed by one of his generals, warlord Abdul Malik Pahlawan who allied himself with the Taliban, forcing him to flee from Mazar-i-Sharif as the Taliban were getting ready to take the city through Pahlawan. Afterwards Pahlawan himself mutinied the Taliban on the deal and it was reported that between May and July 1997 that Pahlawan executed thousands of Taliban members. "He is widely believed to have been responsible for the brutal massacre of up to 3,000 Taliban prisoners after inviting them into Mazar-i-Sharif." Several of the Taliban escaped the slaughtering and reported what had happened. Meanwhile, Dostum came back and took the city again from Pahlawan.

However the Taliban retaliated in 1998 attacking the city and killing an estimated 8,000 non-combatants.

Since 2001

Following the September 11 attacks in 2001, Mazar-i-Sharif was the first Afghan city to fall to the U.S.-backed Northern Alliance (United Front). The Taliban's defeat in Mazar quickly turned into a rout from the rest of the north and west of Afghanistan. After the Battle of Mazar-i-Sharif in November 2001, the city was officially captured by forces of the Northern Alliance. They were joined by the United States Special Operations Forces and supported by U.S. Air Force aircraft. As many as 3,000 Taliban fighters who surrendered were reportedly massacred by the Northern Alliance after the battle, and reports also place U.S. ground troops at the scene of the massacre. The Irish documentary Afghan Massacre: The Convoy of Death investigated these allegations. Filmmaker Doran claims that mass graves of thousands of victims were found by United Nations investigators. The Bush administration reportedly blocked investigations into the incident.

Luftwaffe Tornados in Afghanistan
Camp Marmal, located south of the city next to Mazar-i-Sharif Airport

The city slowly came under the control of the Karzai administration after 2002, which is led by President Hamid Karzai. The 209th Corps (Shaheen) of the Afghan National Army is based at Mazar-i-Sharif, which provides military assistance to northern Afghanistan. The Afghan Border Police headquarters for the Northern Zone is also located in the city.

Thomas de Maizière with Afghan Governor Atta
Thomas de Maizière, German Minister of Defense, with Balkh Governor Atta Muhammad Nur in 2010
John Kerry at Balkh University in May 2011
U.S. Senator John Kerry at Balkh University in May 2011
Carpet seller in mazar-e-sharif
A carpet seller in Mazar

Small-scale clashes between militias belonging to different commanders persisted throughout 2002, and were the focus of intensive UN peace-brokering and small arms disarmament programme. After some pressure, an office of the Afghan Independent Human Rights Commission opened an office in Mazar in April 2003. There were reports about northern Pashtun civilians being ethnically cleansed by the other groups, mainly by ethnic Tajiks, Hazaras and Uzbeks.

NATO-led peacekeeping forces in and around the city provided assistance to the Afghan government. ISAF Regional Command North, led by Germany, is stationed at Camp Marmal which lies next to Mazar-i-Sharif Airport. Since 2006, Provincial Reconstruction Team Mazar-i-Sharif had unit commanders from Sweden on loan to ISAF. The unit is stationed at Camp Northern Lights which is located ten kilometres (six miles) west of Camp Marmal. Camp Nidaros, located within Camp Marmal, has soldiers from Latvia and Norway and is led by an ISAF-officer from Norway.

In 2006, the discovery of new Hellenistic remains was announced.

President Ghani visited the city on 11 August 2021 to rally local warlords to fight the Taliban. On 14 August, the Taliban captured Mazar-i-Sharif along with Sharana and Asadabad, the provincial capitals of Paktika and Kunar provinces respectively. Local government forces and regional leaders Abdul Rashid Dostum and Atta Mohammad Noor fled to neighboring Uzbekistan.

Mazar-i-Sharif is also known for the Afghan song Bia ke berem ba Mazar (Come let's go to Mazar) by Sarban.

Geography

Climate

Mazar-i-Sharif has a cold steppe climate (Köppen climate classification BSk) with hot summers and cold winters. Precipitation is low and mostly falls between December and April. The climate in Mazar-i-Sharif is very hot during the summer with daily temperatures of over 40 °C (104 °F) from June to August. The winters are cold with temperatures falling below freezing; it may snow from November through March.

Climate data for Mazar-i-Sharif
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 24.0
(75.2)
28.6
(83.5)
32.4
(90.3)
37.8
(100.0)
43.0
(109.4)
45.6
(114.1)
48.1
(118.6)
46.0
(114.8)
39.5
(103.1)
37.0
(98.6)
29.8
(85.6)
24.4
(75.9)
48.1
(118.6)
Mean daily maximum °C (°F) 8.0
(46.4)
10.7
(51.3)
16.3
(61.3)
24.3
(75.7)
31.2
(88.2)
37.0
(98.6)
38.9
(102.0)
36.9
(98.4)
31.9
(89.4)
24.7
(76.5)
16.4
(61.5)
10.8
(51.4)
23.9
(75.1)
Daily mean °C (°F) 2.6
(36.7)
5.1
(41.2)
10.8
(51.4)
17.9
(64.2)
24.5
(76.1)
29.9
(85.8)
33.3
(91.9)
29.9
(85.8)
23.9
(75.0)
16.7
(62.1)
9.1
(48.4)
5.1
(41.2)
17.4
(63.3)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F) −2.1
(28.2)
0.0
(32.0)
5.1
(41.2)
11.3
(52.3)
16.6
(61.9)
22.5
(72.5)
25.9
(78.6)
23.8
(74.8)
17.1
(62.8)
9.4
(48.9)
3.2
(37.8)
0.0
(32.0)
11.1
(51.9)
Record low °C (°F) −22.3
(−8.1)
−24.0
(−11.2)
−6.1
(21.0)
−0.8
(30.6)
1.0
(33.8)
11.4
(52.5)
11.1
(52.0)
13.7
(56.7)
2.6
(36.7)
4.5
(40.1)
−8.7
(16.3)
−15.5
(4.1)
−24.0
(−11.2)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 28.9
(1.14)
34.8
(1.37)
43.8
(1.72)
28.3
(1.11)
11.2
(0.44)
0.2
(0.01)
0.0
(0.0)
0.0
(0.0)
0.1
(0.00)
3.9
(0.15)
13.5
(0.53)
21.7
(0.85)
186.4
(7.32)
Average rainy days 4 7 10 9 4 0 0 0 0 2 4 6 46
Average snowy days 4 3 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 2 10
Average relative humidity (%) 79 77 72 64 44 27 25 24 28 41 62 75 52
Mean monthly sunshine hours 122.2 118.4 158.1 193.8 299.9 352.9 364.4 332.7 298.2 223.2 173.6 125.5 2,762.9
Source: NOAA (1959–1983)

Demographics

Maulana Jalaludin park in northern Afghanistan-2
Locals of Mazar-i-Sharif enjoying rides at a small family amusement park in 2012

The city of Mazar-i-Sharif has a total population of 500,207, and is the fourth-largest city of Afghanistan by population. It has a total land area of 8,304 Hectares with 77,615 total number of dwellings.

The November 2003 issue of National Geographic magazine indicated the ethnic composition as Pashtuns 15%, Hazaras 12%, Tajiks 53%, Turkmens 10%, and Uzbeks

The dominant language in Mazar-i-Sharif is Persian, followed by Pashto, and Uzbek.

Economy

Berezka (5778258455)
Store in Mazar-i-Sharif with Russian name in Cyrillic

Mazar-i-Sharif serves as the major trading center in northern Afghanistan. The local economy is dominated by trade, agriculture and Karakul sheep farming. Small-scale oil and gas exploitation have also boosted the city's prospects. It is also the location of consulates of India and Pakistan for trading and political links.

Main sights

The modern city of Mazar-i Sharif is centred around the Shrine of Ali. Much restored, it is one of Afghanistan's most glorious monuments. Outside Mazar-i Sharif lies the ancient city of Balkh. The city is a centre for the traditional buzkashi sport, and the Blue Mosque is the focus of northern Afghanistan's Nowruz celebration. Although most Muslims believe that the real grave of Ali is found within Imam Ali Mosque in Najaf, Iraq, others still come to Mazar-i-Sharif to pay respect.

C-5 Galaxy at Mazar-e-Sharif Airport in northern Afghanistan
An American C-5 Galaxy at Mazar-i-Sharif Airport
Blue Mosque in Mazar-e-Sharif
The Blue Mosque is a destination for pilgrims.
Palace of Balkh Governor in 2010
Governor's Palace
Gate of Mazar-e Sharif in July 2012
Mazar-i-Sharif Gate under construction (July 2012)
  • Airports
    • Mazar-i-Sharif Airport – serves the population of Balkh Province and is also used by NATO-led forces, including the Afghan Air Force. It is being expanded to become the 4th international airport in Afghanistan.
  • Mosques
    • Shrine of Ali
  • Parks and monuments
    • Park-e-Ariana
    • Maulana Jalaludin Cultural Park
    • Tashkurgan Palace
    • Governors Palace
    • Mazar-i-Sharif Gate
    • Khalid Ibn-al Walid Park
  • Universities
    • Balkh University
    • Aria University
    • Sadat University
    • Mawlana University
    • Taj University
    • Turkistan University
    • Rah-e-Saadat University

Sports

Professional sports teams from Mazar-i-Sharif
Club League Sport Venue Established
Balkh Legends Afghanistan Premier League Cricket Sharjah Cricket Stadium 2018
Amo Sharks Shpageeza Cricket League Cricket Balkh Cricket Stadium 2013
Simorgh Alborz F.C. Afghan Premier League Football Balkh Ground 2012
  • Stadiums
    • Balkh Cricket Stadium
    • Buzkashi Stadium

Infrastructure

Transportation

Rail

Hairatan to Mazar-e-Sharif Railway Project in Afghanistan
Railway terminal

It became the first city in Afghanistan to connect itself by rail with a neighboring country. Rail service from Mazar-i-Sharif to Uzbekistan began in December 2011 and cargo on freight trains arrive at a station near Mazar-i-Sharif Airport, where the goods are reloaded onto trucks or airplanes and sent to their last destinations across Afghanistan.

Air

As of June 2016 Mazar-i-Sharif Airport has direct air connections to Kabul, Mashad, Tehran, and Istanbul.

Road

Highway AH76 links Mazar-i-Sharif to Sheberghan in the west, and Pul-e Khomri and Kabul to the south-east. Roads to the east link it to Kunduz. Roads to the north link it to the Uzbek border town Termez, where it becomes highway M39 going north to Samarkand and Tashkent. Roads to the south link it to Bamiyan Province and the mountainous range of central Afghanistan.

Notable people

  • Emir Wazir Akbar Khan, buried in the city
  • Emir Sher Ali Khan, buried in the city
  • Ajab Khan Afridi, freedom fighter against the British Raj
  • Zalmay Khalilzad (Afghan born American diplomat)
  • Wasef Bakhtari, Afghan poet of the Persian language, literary figure and intellectual, one of the first Persian poets to introduce she’r-e nimaa'i ("Nimaic poetry") to Afghan-Persian literature, grew up in Mazar-i-Sharif
  • Abdul Ali Mazari, ethnic Hazara and political leader of the Hezb-e Wahdat party, born in the village of Charkent, south of the northern city of Mazar-i-Sharif
  • Muhammad Mohaqiq, politician in Afghanistan as a member of the Afghanistan Parliament, founder and chairman of the People's Islamic Unity Party of Afghanistan
  • Atta Muhammad Nur, former mujahideen resistance commander for the Jamiat-e Islami against the Soviets and also commander in the United Front (Northern Alliance) under Ahmad Shah Massoud against the Taliban, also former Governor of Balkh Province (2004–2018), born in Mazar-i-Sharif
  • Farshad Noor, Afghan professional football player who plays as a midfielder for the Afghanistan national football team

Twin towns and sister cities

  • Tajikistan Dushanbe, Tajikistan (since 1991)
  • Iran Mashhad, Iran
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